There seem to be four major schools of dog training that is available to the dog owner in the current market place. These are the ones that I have researched in order to make an informative decision on which one to adopt and stick to for my two dogs.  As I started the research when I got my two Labrador I was keyed in on the fact that I was going to train these dogs not for any trials or competition but just to have control in situations when I needed them to be safe.  Situations such as crossing the road or when they meet other dogs or kids.  These are two strong sporting dogs with a drive to retrieve and hunt.  Two seventy pounds dogs that are driving towards a kid can be quite frightening and posses a liability for the owner.

Dominance Based Training

This is the type of training popularized by the National Geographic Channel’s hit series “The Dog Whisperer”.  I have to admit I caught the bug for this show and watched many episodes.  The trainer in this series is Cesar Milan and as you watch him handle his Pit Bull Terriers and the dogs on the series that he “rehabilitates” you can see that his techniques work for him.  The basis of his training is in a theory that says dogs come from wolves and observing wolves in a pack system that there is always one leader referred to as the “Alpha Dog”.  This system uses techniques that mimic an alpha dog correcting a subordinate such as forcing the dog on its back and mimicking a bite to the neck.  There are experts that disagree now with this particular thought on how dogs are or should be trained.  Some have even said that this type of training is cruel to the dog.
I do not use these techniques as I found them to be a little harsh for just a regular pup.  Mr. Milan is usually working with very aggressive or dogs that have other problems that need professional intervention.

Correction Based Training

This is the classic dog training method that came out around the decade of the 1960′s.  In particular on Barbara Woodhouse from Britain that had a very popular dog training series on British TV during this time.  The basis of this type of training is to make a quick and short “correction” to the behavior of the dog when the dog does something that needs to be corrected or an unwanted behavior.  Usually for the training session the dog wears a training collar usually a chain, slip collar or sometimes known as a Woodhouse collar or choke collar.  The correction is delivered by a quick side snap of the leash that quickly closes on the dog’s neck in order to bring the dog’s attention back to the handler.

Positive Reinforcement Training

Recently many trainers have come out in favor of some form of “Positive Reinforcement” training.  This is where the dog is rewarded, either with praise or food or combination of the two, for doing the right behavior as opposed to being corrected for the wrong behavior.  This type of training includes the popular clicker training developed by Karen Pryor and the popular TV series “Me or the Dog” with Victoria Stilwell.  I like this form of training as the focus is on promoting positive behavoir rather than demoting the negatives.

Natural Dog Training

NDT is brand new and is a type of training that was founded by Kevin Behan and is being taught by a couple of his students Neil Sattin (naturaldogblog.com) and Lee Charles Kelly.  This backbone of this type of training is a bit on the complex side as it teaches a totally new way to look at the dog human relation.  The idea is to make yourself the number one driver in your dog’s life.  This idea is presented in a fashion that through exercises and play you become the focus of your dog’s attention no matter what else is happening.  The shift from a dominance based pack theory that we have followed for years is perhaps the biggest challenge.  This is the training that I am following now.  I find the sessions to be a bit of play mixed with some work.  I have found that in the short period of time I have been using these techniques that there is a difference in my oldest dog and the younger one is starting to respond.  A form of training without dominance and punishment has been exactly what I have been looking for.

As there really is no standard in dog training, certification or rules that apply it is up to the owner to make a decision on how their dog gets trained.  You can ship your dog off to dog camp and get them back in a month trained to the nines by someone else or you can take responsibility and do the training yourself. For me owning dogs are a journey and I choose to be an active participant in that journey.

Ellie and her artichoke

I started this blog two years ago when we first got Ellie our female chocolate Labrador retriever.  I remember well how excited I was to hear the litter had been born.  We had already put a deposit in on chocolate female.  As fate would have it, there was only one chocolate female in the litter as mom (Carbon) was a black Labrador but is tri-factored meaning she could have all three colors of pups.  She was mated with Duke a beautiful chocolate male and we got an email on March 9, 2010 that the litter had been born.  I anxiously waited on the first photos from the breeders (CD Kennels and Stables in Hickory, NC) that came the next week.  I know I drove the breeders crazy with my emails and request but they were very patient with me and provided new photos when I requested them.  We picked Ellie up on May 2 when she was eight weeks old and we fell in love immediately.

Ellie was a little less than perfectly behaved as a pup.  She was constantly eating whole tissues and napkins, she chewed on me something awful with those needle milk teeth and kept me on my toes pretty much all the time while house training.  Relive that time through my recap on this website.

She has turned out to be one ‘Great’ dog who is as beautiful a specimen as I have ever seen.  She lives at home with Otis our yellow Labrador that is just six months Ellie’s junior so they are best budds and constantly beat up on each other.  Otis was easier to raise as a pup because he chewed on Ellie all the time instead of me.  Pay back!

Dogs are amazing creatures and once again I find myself with two really good ones.

Storing sweet potato dog treats in mason jar

Sweet potatoes sliced and either dehydrated in a dehydrator or in the oven can be a good chew treat for your dog.  These dog treats are easy to make, inexpensive and a healthy alternative to rawhide or dried pig parts.

Sweet potatoes are actually not a potato but they are roots or tubers.  In their raw form they can be very tough to cut so be very careful when you do this recipe.  A sharp knife is required so be careful of cutting on weird angles.

• Wash the sweet potato thoroughly and either slice into 1/4 inch slices (length or cross) or cut into 1/4 sticks for smaller breeds.
• Layer into a dehydrator
• Set on 155 degrees
• Dehydrate for 6 hours for a chewy consistency
• Dehydrate for 8 to 11 hours for a dryer, crunchy consistency

If you are drying in the oven.

• Set the oven on 250 and dry for 4 hours then cut the oven off and let them cool in the oven for a crispy texture or take them out soon to maintain a softer flexible texture.

The dryer the longer the shelf life of these treats.

My dogs, which eat rocks, small trees, etc., were a little reluctant however after tasting them they seemed to like them very much.

I stored the treats in quart or sandwich size storage bags.  Closed they absorbed some moisture and got pliant again.  The treats came out well.  A little chewy seemed to be the preferred texture. A second batch was stored in a mason jar in a cool, dark area.  This was the best way to store.

I made a second batch with the fries, for smaller dog friends, and slicing thinner cross the potato so they would be chips.  The cross cuts were the best.  They were easy to cut the and produced good treats for medium to large dogs.

According to the American Kennel Club the list of sporting dogs are:

• American Water Spaniel
• Boykin Spaniel
• Brittany
• Chesapeake Bay Retriever
• Clumber Spaniel
• Cocker Spaniel
• Curly Coated Retriever
• English Cocker Spaniel
• English Setter
• English Springer Spaniel
• Field Spaniel
• Flat-Coated Retriever
• German Shorthaired Pointer
• German Wirehaired Pointer
• Golden Retriever
• Gordon Setter
• Irish Red and White Setter
• Irish Setter
• Irish Water Spaniel
• Labrador Retriever
• Novia Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever
• Pointer
• Spinone Italiano
• Sussex Spaniel
• Vizsla
• Weimaraner
• Welsh Springer Spaniel
• Wirehaired Pointing Griffon

Training a sporting dog for hunting is an involved process which trains the dog by vocal and hand signals eventually training the dog to work on his own in the field on in the water.  Training a sporting dog for obedience and other duties to help humans is easier than some breeds.  Their eagerness to work and please make them excellent guide and helper dogs.

History

I find it amazing that some dog breeds can be traced back to their origins through breeding records. The golden was developed at the estate of Sir Dudley Marjoribanks through crossing a yellow-coloured Retriever named Nous with a Tweed Water Spaniel bitch named Belle. The resulting litter contained four pups that were used for the basis of the breeding program. The breeding program included the St. John’s Water Dog, the Bloodhound, the Irish Setter and two black wavy-coated Retrievers. Marjoribanks had a vision of what the ultimate sporting dog would be and the results of his work is a truly great dog, the Golden Retriever.

The breed was known as Flat Coats – Golden to the Kennel Club of England until 1920 when they were reclassified as the Golden Retriever. In 1881 and 1894 respectively the breed was introduced to Canada and America. The breed was recognized by the American Kennel Club in 1925.

Appearance

The British Golden retriever has medium length legs similar to the British Labrador retriever, a stocky body and a head that is wide and block like. The American Golden retriever and Canadian Golden retriever are both taller, thinner, with a thinner head and a slightly different coat. The standards of the Golden retriever in the American Kennel Club are based on the American Golden.

The colour of the Golden retriever is as the name suggests different shades of gold. There are dogs with lighter (some to white) and darker (edging towards red or mahogany). The AKC only accepts colours of gold for the standard in the show ring. The British standards accept cream as a colour for judging while the AKC does not.

The coat is a water repellent double coat that is long and can be straight to wavy. The coat differs in the national varieties of the breed.

The nose can be black to pink with black the accepted AKC standard.

Health Issues

Goldens as a breed can develop joint issues especially hip dysplasia. Purchasing from a reputable breeder and keeping the dog at or around ideal weight will help lessen the chances of problems later. Goldens are also prone to cancer, degenerative eye issues, heart conditions and skin allergies.

Golden Retriever as a Pet

Never have I met a golden retriever that was not friendly and willing to please everyone they met. The golden is an incredibly gentle and patient breed. Their patience makes them an excellent hunting breed as does their eagerness to work and please. Goldens are very gentle around children and other animals therefor making them one of the greatest family dog breeds available. The intelligence of the goldens are right up at the top of the list right behind border collie, German shepherds and poodle making them ideal candidates for guide dogs, assistant dogs and therapy dogs.

A varietal of the traditional Labrador or what is known as the “English” or “show” Labrador is the American Labrador retriever.  The American field Labrador is bred to be taller, thinner, more sleek for running through fields and swimming while waterfowl hunting.

While the English Labrador is the standard that the breed is judged against the American Kennel Club is making adjustments to the judging standards to accept Labs of taller stature.  While not judged as a breed on its own the American Labrador excels on field and trial, agility and obedience competitions.  They are, after all, still full blooded Labrador retrievers.

The demeanor of the American Lab tends to be a little more energetic than its English cousin and requires lots of exercise.  The American Labrador can do anything the English Labrador can, and then some (personal opinion).

History of Labradors in America

The breed was first registered with the AKC in 1917 and remained a relatively unknown breed until around 1928 when promoted by an article in the American Kennel Gazette.  The first yellow Labrador was registered in 1929 (Kinclaven Lowesby), the first chocolate lab was registered in 1932 (Diver of Chiltonfoliat).  After World War II is when the Labrador retriever became very popular where they remain to this day.

Personal Note: I have owned five American Field Labradors in the last 21 years and I can attest to the fact that they are a brilliant and beautiful breed that makes the best family pets you could hope for.

Disclaimer: I love dogs in general but the Labrador dog is my breed of choice. So if some of this sounds a little bias it is because it is.  I presently own a chocolate Labrador female and a male yellow Labrador.

General

Labrador Retrievers are the most popular dog breed according to dog club registrations in the United State, Canada and United Kingdom for about two decades now (2011). Labrador retrievers are an incredible breed that can be trained to do almost anything. Originally bred to retrieve fishing nets around the east coast of Canada they have thick coats and web feet to help with these chores. Today Labradors or Labs are used for guide dogs, other assistance work, police work and function well in almost any dog sporting event. A most popular use of these dogs is for hunting and a newer breed of the Labrador has been developed in the US and is known as the American Field Lab. Labs are athletic, full of energy, protective while still being gentle around children making them a great family pet.

History

The Labrador retriever dogs come from Newfoundland an island off the coast of Canada. The Lab was bred from the St. John’s Water Dog a working breed of local origins. The St. John’s Water Dog was brought to England where it was used as a sporting or gun dog used mainly in bird hunting for retrieving. Due to taxation on dogs caused by sheep herders and rabies quarantine in England the breed gradually died out and the last two living specimens (two males) died in the 1980s making the breed extinct. Some of the Canadian Labradors still bear the distinctive white chest markings of the St. John’s Water dog showing the genetics of the breed still being passed through Lab breeding. The St. John’s Water Dog is also the ancestor of the Golden Retriever, Chesapeake Bay retriever, Flat Coated Retriever in addition to the Lab.

Appearance

Labradors are larger dogs that will range from 60 to 90 pounds, maybe more if you don’t watch what they eat, for the males and a good 15 pounds less for females. There are two types of Labradors recognized by the American Kennel Club. The confirmation sometimes referred to as the “English” or “show” breed and the American Field Labrador. The English Labs are shorter and stockier with large broad heads while their Field Lab cousins are slim and taller being bred for hunting birds in the field and marshlands. The “English” standards are the recognized standards for the breed as far as the AKC is concerned and there is work being done to get the American Field Lab accepted as its own breed. The best the AKC has done is to open up the standards to accept taller measurements at the withers.

The coat of the Labrador is short and dense. The coat is slightly oily giving the Lab a water resistant characteristic for keeping them warm in the water and colder climates. Labs do shed as the fur grows to a certain length then a new hair comes in behind it. Normally Labs shed twice a year in cooler climates but in warmer climates they can shed all year round.

The tail is thick and described as “otter” like in order to help with swimming.

The color of the Labrador for show purposes can be one of three colors (black, yellow, and chocolate). The color comes about through genetics and colors of all three can be produced in the same litter. The dam is called factored for the colors and can be single, double or tri-factored. Because multiple genes determine the color characteristics of the dog there may be some color variations. In particular some dogs may have the white chest markings like the St. John’s Water Dog. Other color variations can produce what is called a “Dudley” coloration which is an unpigmented pink nose.

Choosing the Labrador as a Pet or Companion

The Labrador is one great dog for the family or as a helping partner. They love to please their owners no matter what the work type is. They are, in general, friendly and gentle although they can be very energetic and a little clumsy as puppies. A six month old Labrador puppy can already weigh 50 to 60 pounds and can cause some issues when working off some of that energy. Labs can be trained well and are very good protectors of their space.  That’s all the good stuff: here’s the bad.  Labs are a bit on the mischievous side and tend to get into trouble if allowed.  Labrador puppies will eat anything so supervise at playtime.  A Labrador can be very hard headed, stubborn and very intense when it comes to retrieving play.  Of course these ‘bad’ traits are also why we love them so.  That intensity in retrieving play is the same in the field retrieving game.

Most of the everyday collars are called quick release collars which mean that a human can release the buckle quickly and easily. Most of the time this works well. Most of the time is not all of the time. Here’s my quick story on why this difference is very important to the well being of your dog(s).

The pups (11 months and 14 months) and I had just come back from a nice walk as the weather is starting to cool down from a very hot summer. I was getting ready for work and as usual, the pups were play fighting. If you had not witnessed this before you would think they were actually hurting each other but it’s a bunch of noise mostly. I had left their ‘quick-release’ collars on because they had been in the back yard. I don’t know why but I looked in on them to find the younger one had his bottom k9 teeth caught up under the others collar. He was trying to get loose and had twisted it creating a tourniquet which was tightening around her neck to where she could not breathe. To make things worse the pressure he was applying was jamming the ‘quick-release’ buckle and it would not come loose. I finally got it loose and hopefully learned my lesson. The quick release collar did release fine afterwards but not while there was tension on it from a 60 pound Labrador retriever.

I immediately started looking for an alternative to the commonly used quick release dog collar buckle. The breakaway collar I found was surprisingly the only design on the market. The Premier Keepsafe break-away dog collar seems to be the item to get. The design is such that any pressure applied on the collar would pop the buckle. The downside of using these is that grabbing the dog by the collar or trying to restrain by the collar would pop the buckle releasing the dog. Also when it does come off you have to go locate it so I don’t think I would put tags on full time. I am using these as back yard collars so it is a great solution for me. If you want to walk your dog with these collars on there are two o-rings, one on either side that you clip your lead into both of them at the same time which bypasses the buckle.

Premier products are built well and are designed for safety. Do yourself a favor and get a break away collar before you need it.

The older of the two does well on the leash as far as pulling goes but she jumps and jumps and jumps and jumps. I found an occasional session with the Halti, head collar, gives me the control over the jumping I need with her. However, the younger of the two is a shorter stockier dog that pulls like a twenty mule team.

The head collar would work for him but I have always like the design of dog harnesses as a leash-collar alternative. He pulls so hard that he chokes himself and just does not understand that the loose leash is the best.

I got one design that is nice and padded around the straps that fit under the front two legs with padding around other pressure points. The design had the o-ring for the leash on the area that is on the back of the dog. The problem with this is he just wants to pull that much more although it does give some control it does not help with the pulling issue.

Another design has the o-ring up front where the chest strap is. There are some different designs on this and this is the type of harness you want to buy. The other type, that hooks in the back, causes the dog to want to pull more similar to working dogs or sled dogs.

I looked at three different designs before deciding. The first was one is called the Holt Control Harness. It has hooks in front and hooks on the back giving the handler lots of control. I used this type of harness for a while and it gave good control but did nothing for the pulling. In all fairness it is not advertised as a device to control pulling simply gain control of the dog.

The next design I looked at was the Sporn Pull Stop harness. This is a well designed harness that has two lengths of webbing that goes under the front two legs and threads back through the back of the collar at an o-ring where they join the lead. The dog pulls, the two loops tighten and pressure is applied to the dogs sternum area which, evidently, they do not like. The loops are padded or with the one I saw in the store has fleece lining.

The final one I researched and eventually decided to buy is the Premier Easy Walk Harness. A couple things about the design of the Premier Harness appealed to me. The first was there are no loops that go up under the front legs, rather there is a strap that goes across the chest in the front below the head and a buckled strap that goes vertically around the chest behind the front two legs. Also there is a Martingale design to the front chest strap that closes and tightens when the dog pulls creating that discomfort that makes them stop or slow. The lead hooking into the front chest strap pulls the dog off to the side if they insist on continuing to pull.

All three of these harness will help you control you dog in one way or another. I used two of them and was seriously on the fence about the third had I not been presented with an either-or choice in the pet store. Use these harnesses as training devices intermingled with regular leash training and it will help you achieve your goal of walking with your dog, without being pulled down the street, a reality.